VIRGINIA ALI
OWNER of BEN'S CHILI BOWL
October 2020
Meet Virginia Ali of Ben’s Chili Bowl. A few weeks ago on an afternoon in September, I had the pleasure of chatting on the phone with the inimitable and elegant Mrs. Ali of the legendary Ben’s Chili Bowl. Ever since Mrs. Ali and her late husband Ben opened on U Street in 1958, Ben’s Chili Bowl has not only fed the neighborhood, but has been a true pillar of the community. Dr. Martin Luther King, President Obama, Bono, President George W. Bush, Anthony Bourdain, Mary J. Blige— they have all passed through the doors of the Chili Bowl to meet Mrs. Ali and her family and to feast on the Chili Bowl’s signature mouth-watering chili dogs, burgers and subs.
The legendary Mrs. Ali is filled with the wisdom, grace, strength and humor that we can all only hope to have—and my time speaking with her clearly demonstrated why Mrs. Ali and the Chili Bowl have been an inspiration to so, so many. Mrs. Ali is proof that food is community, and community is love. Here’s our conversation.
Peter: Hi, it’s Peter. Hello, Mrs. Ali.
Ali: Hello. Excellent. Hello?
P: Can you hear me alright?
A: How are you? Yes, I can hear you.
P: It's such a such a pleasure and honor to speak to you.
A: Well, thank you very much. I'm very happy to get an opportunity to chat with you as well.
P: I'm a fashion designer and a food lover and I love talking to food people. But you are not just a food person. You are truly a pillar of the community. And one of the most important things about food is community. And you’ve created that with Ben's Chili Bowl. Not only that, you've seen history and been a part of in history. So, I’m thrilled to get the chance to speak to you.
A: Well, thank you so much. Thank you.
P: Speaking of history, I would love to know your thoughts on what's going on right now in the US and what this time means to you. Right now, there's a lot going on.
A: You know, Peter, I will be at 87 years old in December. Well, my husband and I opened Ben’s Chili Bowl August 22nd 1958, which means I’ve been here 62 years and counting. Are you familiar with Washington? Well, the area that we are in when I moved here from Virginia in 1952, this area was a very prominent African American community, and it was segregated. But, we had everything we needed here. We didn't have to go downtown to the theater or to dinner or anything of the sort because we had everything we needed here. We have Howard University in walking distance, and course we had our own African American family-owned and operated bank that's still there today 85 years later. We had a strong intellectual community, a strong business community. We had all of that. All of that changed in 1968 [when the 1968 riots happened].
“DR. MARTIN LUTHER KING had a satellite office at 14th and U, just a couple of blocks away. So he would come in from time to time, and we just listened to him talk about his dream, and meet many of the civil rights leaders at that time. And we thought we were making some progress because the Civil Rights bill was passed in 1964 and the Voting Rights bill was passed in 1965.”
But when I met my husband— who came from Trinidad in the Caribbean— he had gone to college in Nebraska and worked his way through college by working in restaurants, he knew the restaurant business, and then we met and wanted to be married, he wanted to be self-employed, and we thought of a restaurant. That's a good idea. So, we found the ideal location and what was known in those days as Black Broadway. That would be easy. It was known as Black Broadway because we had three state of the art movie houses right next door to the building that we were able to lease in 1958. And so we were able to have this property which itself is an old silent movie theater, and we leased it. We found the contractor, the plumbers, the electricians, the architect— everybody within a few blocks. Privately-owned businesses right here in the neighborhood that supported us for the duration of their careers.
And so when we decided they wanted to open this little restaurant, he has this very special chili recipe, and we knew that there were lots of hamburger places around, so we thought this chili would go with the hot dog. And so that's what we decided to do. Let's open up a good old American hot dog place with the half-smoke and the burgers and the whole nine yards and we did that. We were readily accepted by the community with this bright looking building with lights everywhere, very modern looking for that time. And we were here ten years before the riots occurred.
Now, we've been here during the Civil Rights movement during the sixties, we were here to participate in the 1963 March on Washington and to provide food for some of the visitors and demonstrators. Dr. Martin Luther King had a satellite office at 14th and U, just a couple of blocks away. So he would come in from time to time, and we just listened to him talk about his dream, and meet many of the civil rights leaders at that time. And we thought we were making some progress because the Civil Rights bill was passed in 1964 and the Voting Rights bill was passed in 1965.
So we thought we were making good progress.
And then the riots happened and tore through the neighborhood on April the 4th 1968 and the neighborhood— literally destroyed. Ben’s Chili Bowl was the only place that was allowed to remain open during three nights of curfews. That was a little scary, but we were able to do that. And no one bothered the Chili Bowl. We were worried, but there was no damage ever done to the Chili Bowl.
And then, after the riots were over, the businesses did not re-open. There was some large businesses [that remained open], like Safeway and Peoples Drug Store. But the businesses didn’t open. Then the middle class began to move away. Heroin moved in and crack cocaine moved in and this beautiful neighborhood took a downhill turn for a very long time.
In 1988 they finally decided to build the subway system, which is right across the street from Ben’s and during the survey, they found three surviving businesses in the immediate vicinity. And that was the bank that's been open 85 years, Lee’s Flower Shop that’s been here just as long with the third generation operating, and Ben’s Chili Bowl. But that was not enough business to maintain one lane of traffic on our beautiful street. They dug up the entire street. When they did that, there were no cars driving past us. So I had one employee, just one and me. My husband found something else to keep us going.
But when the subway opened in 1991 all the new businesses moved in and the new apartments and condominiums and everything. Now we are rolling again. We are a very expensive busy neighborhood again.
Well, I gave you a little synopsis of the whole thing. Now, when do you actually want to talk about the food? [laughs]
P: No, that is amazing. Amazing. [laughs] Well, before we get to the food, I'd love to know what your thoughts are about what's going on right now with the protests. And what this moment in time means for you right now as we’re seeing another chapter in history.
A: Well yes, for me, I'm so very proud of the young people that are out there leading these demonstrations, and it's peaceful protest and proud that they're doing that on their own volition. You know they don't have the strong leadership we had back in the Civil Rights Movement in 1963 demonstrations. But we have these young people from all walks of life, all backgrounds, all religions, all colors, everything which is absolutely amazing. But they're fighting for the same basic civil rights that we fought for back in the sixties. That's just seems unfair— to have to fight for the same thing all these many years later. But that's what we have to do. And I'm proud of them for doing it, and we're still participating. We head out and help by feeding some of the protesters. And I'm grateful for their non-violence. I think some agitators are joining them and creating some problems, but for the most part they are non-violent.
P: Do you have hope? For you, is there a sense that there will be change?
A: I do have hope. I mean, I'm optimistic by nature, but I certainly do have hope. And you know, this demonstration has been all over the country and all over the world, and I think that this is certainly going to have to have an impact. We have a new election coming up, and hopefully they will put in some senators and Congress people that will understand what we're dealing with. We have to make that happen. I'm definitely optimistic. This is a beautiful country. What are we gonna do? We can't let go.
“This is a BEAUTIFUL country. What are we gonna do? We can't let go. “
P: You're right. From your mouth to God’s ears. That is for sure. [pauses] So, one of the questions I do like to ask in terms of the food side of things is, what is your favorite meal to eat?
A: [laughs] My favorite has always been a basic… a beef chili dog with mustard, onions and homemade spicy chili sauce. And I must have had one every day for the first 30 years! [laughs]
P: [laughs] What about now? Do you skip a day every now and then?
A: But now I have to skip a few days now so that I don't have to take medications for cholesterol, but I'm okay.
P: Oh good.
A: I walk, I do. I do my walking and I'm still not on medication yet.
P: That's wonderful.
A: That's because you know that when you're too busy to be sick you don’t have time to get sick, right?
P: So very true!
A: Yes, when you wake up in the morning and you're feeling a little down and you've got a mild headache or something and could stay home and nurture it, or you could just take a quick shower and put on your clothes and get out of there and do something.
P: That's right!
A: That's right. And you forget about your little ailments.
P: My mom always said, mind over matter you just get up and just go and do it.
A: Yes, of course. Of course, I agree. I think that's the way it certainly has worked for me.
“My FAVORITE has always been a basic... a beef chili dog with mustard, onions and homemade spicy chili sauce. And I must have had one every day for the first 30 years!”
P: How often are you at the Chili Bowl? Do you go all the time?
A: Well, I was going every single day. And then my son said to me one day when the pandemic started, ‘Mom, Mom, you 87! If you get this virus, we will lose you. Would you please stay home?’ [laughs] Well, you know, I tried it. I tried maybe a month. I tried. After a while I'm like, you know what? I'll put my mask on. I'll keep my social distancing. I'm getting out of here! So, I'm here today at the Chili Bowl, I was here yesterday. I'll be here tomorrow.
P: That is so inspiring.
A: I enjoy people. You know, I'm in this place and meet people from all over the world. I meet people from all walks of life from all backgrounds and religions of races. I mean, it's just wonderful.
P: It really sounds like your idea of community has always been there and you've been practicing it since day one.
A: Oh, yeah, We certainly did that. And this community has supported us. I think about what happened when the pandemic hit and we applied for the PPP and the bank didn’t turn it in on time or they ran out of money or something, I don't know— maybe the big boys got it first or whatever it was. Anyway, a reporter called and asked me, uh, how we were doing. I said, ‘Well, we're struggling’, so his headline said, ‘Ben's Chili Bowl Is On The Brink’.
P: Oh boy.
A: Well, I didn't quite say that, right? But the letters, the letters came pouring in, the phone calls, the checks. People were sending checks. It was just an outpouring of love that was unimaginable for me, it really was. And we were able to take those funds and give back to this community. We were able to prepare meals for the hospital staff at University Hospital and the hospital center, and we did that for some of the protestors. Some for the first responders, the fire department— we did that quite a bit. And, it worked very well. But, you know, we've always had that community support. Because when people know that you're there for them and you’ll help anyway you can, they’re there for you as well.
P: Agreed, you got it back tenfold with the response. Because you're such an important part of the community— you've given so much. [pauses] So, I just have a few other questions. I don't want to take up too much of your time. I’ve asked you what's your favorite meal to eat. Now I’m curious what’s your favorite meal to cook? Is it the same thing?
A: [laughs] Oh, my gosh. I love to eat, so I enjoy cooking. I had three sons, and everybody had a hearty appetite. My husband came from a different culture, so I learned to make all the Indian food— curries and that kind of thing. But back in the day, my favorite meal— before we realized that we shouldn’t eat as much as we did— my favorite meal to cook on Sunday was a prime rib roast.
P: Oh, yum!
A: My husband liked the end cut, one son liked the end cut, my other son liked the end cut, so then you get your rib roast cut in half so you have four end cuts.
P: Mm. That sounds delicious.
A: Absolutely. And, you know, I love vegetables too— I grew up on my father's large farm, so vegetables were a big part of our lives. I love all kinds of vegetables and it was not unusual to have two or three vegetables— your broccoli along with your kale or what have you. You know, I used to make the greatest potato salad that I love very much. I just enjoy cooking.
P: [laughs] I mean, now I'm hungry!
A: [laughs] Well, you enjoy making beautiful dresses. Did I see Michelle Obama in one of yours?
P: Oh yes. I mean, for me that was probably the honor of my career. To have dressed the First Lady Michelle Obama— a very big honor.
A: A very big honor! So wonderful.
P: So, I usually like to end the conversation with this question: Do you have a favorite quote or any words you live by? I would love to know what that might be.
A: Well, I think what I've tried to do here and what’s worked so well for me is ‘do unto others as you’d have them do unto you.’
P: Yes, yes.
A: Yeah, that's it. That's all it takes. When you treat a person the way you'd like to be treated— it's so simple. It is easy to do. It's so easy to do. If we do that with everybody we meet, we would have a peaceful world.
P: You’re so right. And some people have forgotten those simple words which really ring so true.
[We continue to chat about New York City, life and the world, which circled us back to the pandemic.]
A: In my 87 years we've had many challenges, but nothing to compare with this pandemic.
P: Has this really been the biggest challenge?
A: Yes, because it's makes people sick. Anyone can contaminate anybody else. So that's the hard part about this one.
P: Yeah. Yeah.
A: This is something that if we knew it would end within next month, we can handle it. If it had to last six months we can handle it. But we need to know that there’s an end coming!
P: We do. We really do. We need some leadership.
A: Yeah, exactly. Everybody stay home and everybody wear a mask so that we can get this done.
P: Yeah, I completely agree.
A: Get this done and we can move on again.
P: Well, if we can get through this, we can get through anything. Hopefully we can all pull through together and support each other just the way you've been supporting the community all these 62 years.
A: Well it’s certainly been my pleasure— my pleasure to do that and to receive the love and support from the community.
P: You’re inspiring to read about, and you're inspiring to speak to and I want to thank you so much, Mrs. Ali, for taking the time to talk to me.
A: Well, thank you very much Peter. And I’m hoping the next time you come to DC you’ll pop in and see us.
P: It’ll be the first place I go. You can count on it.
A: Please call so I can be sure to be here.
P: Yes, definitely. I would love that. Thank you so much, Mrs. Ali.
A: Alright. Thank you!
P: Thank you!
A: Take care. Bye-bye.
Peter: So, I usually like to end the conversation with this question: Do you have a favorite quote or any words you live by? I would love to know what that might be.
Ali: Well, I think what I've tried to do here and what’s worked so well for me is ‘do unto others as you’d have them do unto you.’
Additional photos courtesy of Ben’s Chili Bowl