Mom’s Five Spice Roast Chicken
If there was ever a recipe that I identify with my Mom, this one is it. Growing up, we ate this almost every week. And I was the happier for it. While my parents were still at their bourgeoning architecture firm, I had two jobs when I got home from school— to put on the rice and take the chicken out of the fridge so it would get to room temp, at which point my Mom would have gotten home to put it in the oven (at that point I was usually enthralled with an episode of Tom and Jerry). My Mom knew the score. This was essentially a make-ahead main dish. The chicken is prepared in the morning before work and put in the fridge. During that time the salt does all the work to tenderize the meat. While in the oven a vegetable is made and dinner, seemingly in a snap, is served.
There are roast chickens and then there is THIS roast chicken. If you’re not familiar with Chinese Five Spice— this is where you should start. It’s a blend of star anise, Szechuan peppercorn, fennel seeds, cinnamon and clove that can be quite strong and pungent if you smell it out of the jar, but once heat and oil hits it— it mellows out into a warm sweet and spicy blend with a touch of heat and a touch of licorice from the star anise. This chicken is very much a cross cultural hybrid born out of my mom’s need for a quick and delicious weekday dinner. Oh, and have I mentioned the best part of the whole thing? The skin becomes shatteringly crispy, the salt and five-spice tingle on the tongue and the sweet undertones of the brown sugar come through at the end.
I (allegedly!) was known to peel and eat a large portion of the skin while it was out of the oven and resting. There was no way I could resist that warm savory paper-thin crisp skin. I bet you won’t’ be able to either.
Check out this recipe in T, The New York Times Style Magazine.
Serves 6
INGREDIENTS
One 3½-4 lb. chicken
1 orange
1 lemon
6 garlic cloves
1 tbsp five-spice powder
1 tbsp and 1 tsp salt (divided)
1 tbsp brown sugar
6 scallions
1 bunch cilantro
½ tsp black pepper
1 tbsp neutral oil
¼ cup rice wine
Steamed jasmine rice, for serving
METHOD
Prepare your chicken. Using kitchen shears, cut below the breast (above the legs) on both sides until the breast begins to release from the legs. Unfold the chicken like you’re opening a book, with the skin facing up. Place the palm of your hand on the top of the breast, which will be sticking up, and press firmly until the chicken is mostly flattened.
On another cutting board, thinly slice the citrus fruits, and peel and smash each clove of garlic. Toast the five-spice powder and 1 tablespoon salt in a sauté pan over medium-low heat for a few minutes or until they become fragrant. Transfer to a small bowl and mix with the brown sugar.
In a baking dish large enough to fit your chicken, layer the citrus slices and top with the scallions, garlic and cilantro. Drizzle the chicken with the oil on both sides, and coat with the five-spice mixture. Refrigerate for at least two, and up to eight, hours.
When you’re ready to cook, preheat the oven to to 425 degrees and pull the chicken out of the fridge. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add the rice wine to the pan after 25 minutes and cook for another 20 to 25 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through. Plate the chicken with the citrus, cilantro, scallions, garlic and a pile of jasmine rice.