Creamy Kimchi Pasta

In my first apartment in NYC after graduating college, I usually entered my kitchen with a slight sense of dread. Fresh out of the confines of the college cafeteria and now thrust into the ‘real world,’ I arrived in NYC armed with a handful of my Mom’s recipes she’d written down on index cards, a love of Martha Stewart and the ability to be a great sous-chef to the women in my family. But now, in my rental on East 30th street, I was left to my own devices. And, most often, I’d use pasta as a creative blank slate with almost anything that was in my fridge. Hoisin and turkey meat? Not so bad. Salsa and pesto? Not so great. Those experiments were where the basis of this recipe came from. Over the years it has evolved—but why this pasta dish is truly a dream is because it paired up flavors that reminded me of home with the ease of pantry and fridge grabs.

The complex heat of kimchi, the funky back notes of fish sauce and the saltiness of pecorino form an umami-mouthful of goodness, while the heavy cream and butter add richness of course—but, also balance out those other bolder ingredients. I love the finish of crushed nori sheets—they lend (again) more umami (if you can’t find them use seaweed snacks—just find the plainest flavor) along with a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds and furikake. So, turns out creativity in the kitchen can eventually yield some pretty delicious stuff.


Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 lb. spaghetti
1 tbsp olive oil
5 garlic cloves, sliced
1 to 1½ cup kimchi, minced, with its juice (approximately 2 tbsp)
1 tbsp fish sauce
½ cup heavy cream
½ cup pecorino, grated
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
1 sheet nori, crushed
Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
Furikake, for finishing (optional)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD

Cook pasta in well-salted water according to package instructions until al dente. Reserve ½ cup of pasta water.

Meanwhile, make the sauce. In a large skillet with high sides over medium heat, add olive oil and garlic cloves. Sauté—stirring constantly—for 45 seconds to 1 minute until just golden brown (don’t let it burn!), then add kimchi and fish sauce and stir to combine. Lower heat to medium low and add heavy cream and let simmer for 3-4 minutes.

Add pasta and stir to coat, then add ¼ cup pasta water along with pecorino, butter and sesame oil. Add remaining pasta water, season with salt and pepper and continue to combine, until noodles are coated.

To serve, transfer pasta to a large serving bowl or individual pasta bowls, liberally shower nori atop, then garnish with toasted sesame seeds, finish with furikake if using, and serve immediately.

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